Records Per Page: 50
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| Question from: ūmit ENGYN |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We use 2 cm. thick granite but we want to use 1 cm. thick granite on wall cladding (exterior implementation) Are there any changes in anchorage system? are there any materials that are stiuck to back side of the granite? What about the safety!
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| Question from: Michael Levin |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We have been asked to use stone at the following locations on a wood frame structure:1. Parapets2. Chimney TopThe stone caps are 4-5 inches thick. What is the best way to support this stone in these circumstances?
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| Question from: ūmit ENGYN |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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hi.. I want to learn about the installion technique of the 1 cm. thick granite... Anchoring system, back material???Thanks for your attention...
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| Question from: wayne palmgren |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I would love some solid advice on installing "Rojo Alicante" arround a swimming pool in Dallas Texas. Obvious concerns are #1 Freeze/thaw, #2 Slip resistance. The finish would be sand blasted and sealed with a uv protector.The stone would be 2cm material, patterned along side Crema Europa Limestone, tight joints.
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| Question from: venkatraman iyer |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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It would be appreciated if you could advise on the use of mechanical fixings (stainless steel) on hollow blocks and companies who manufacture such fixings.Thanks and best regardsvenkatraman
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| Question from: Richard Morello |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Will granite tile do well on top of a Therma Floor by Msxxon Corp? The floor will have radiant heat also .If this is not recomended, is there a viable alternative?
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| Question from: Richard Morello |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We are planning to install 12 x 12 inch granite tile in a new room. there is currently 5/8" tongue and groove plywood as the deck now. I am planning to staple down radiant heat (PEX tubing) to the floor. What is the best underlayment to use to recieve the granite tile?
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| Question from: David Yoches |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I would like to install 1200 feet of travertine tile over sheet vinyl flooring in a newly constructed home in southern california. Any issues I need to be aware of?I had travertine installed in my last home, in Phoenix, Arizona. We had thickness problems according to the installer. Although the tile factory rep stated the tiles were of high quality and were not of different thicknesses. He viewed the replacement tiles and a few left over from the first batch.How does one insure travertine tiles are the same thicknesses? How do you measure / test for tile thicknesses? Is there a code or rating system? How much of a difference creates installation problems? Also, how are these types of products graded? Do I need to sand the vinyl prior to installation? What is the best adhesive for this type of installation?
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| Question from: Allan |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Great site - from the wonderful advice you offer here, I successfully laid marble tile in my bathroom. On to the kitchen. I am installing absolute black granite slabs on my counter tops. I have 18"x18" and 24"x24" tiles for the backsplash. My walls are lath and plaster. What is the proper mounting method for the backsplash - do I need to remove the plaster and install 1/4" durarock, thinset and then the tiles, or can the thinset/tiles be applied directly to the plaster?
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| Question from: Linda |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am having trouble setting the granite pieces on the edge of my countertop. Is there a product to use that will help hold the edge in place so that it doesn`t slip down while curing. I`m using thinset. Is there another product that has better adhering capabilities
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| Question from: Josh Klein |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am trying to dry set natural stone from my property on the concrete foundation stem walls. Currently I am not securing it to the concrete stem wall. Do I need some type of mortor with wire to secure it. I do not want to see the mortor and do not want to grout it. My pattern seems tight enough to where you would not see the mortor securing it to the stem wall. Do you have the sollution for my stability problem. Thank you!
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| Question from: Didem Elosman@aol |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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What is the best way to lay marble flooring; on apoxy, mud float/dry set? Thanks Didem
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| Question from: Trudy |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am considering installing granite tiles for my kitchen countertop. Can this be a do-it-yourself project? I have done ceramic tile in the past? Where can I find specific instructions? Also looking for any information I can find on where to buy the granite and if any particular kind is preferred over another.How do I cut the granite? How would you go about installing an undermount sink with the granite tiles? I need HELP!!
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| Question from: Bryan |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I have a poured concrete slab 11`x18` that slopes to a center drain. The overall drop is about 9 inches. I would like to put down slate tiles. If I simply lay down mortar I am left with the same slope. Can I put down a crushed stone foundation and then lay the tiles down? How do I have to consider the function of the drain? Is this even possible? Thanks for your help.
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| Question from: TIM DRIVER |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We are replacing vinyl in our 600 sq ft kitchen with either porcellain or granite 16 inch tiles.The present floor is tongue and groove 2x6 with 1/2 inch particleboard ao top of that.Will we need to pull up and replace the particle board with wunder or hardibacker board or could our tile setter put this down on the particle board as is?
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| Question from: Ann Cade |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Is it OK to install granite backsplash tile with mastic? Will it hold?
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| Question from: George Evanoff |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Hello, I'm sure you've answered this before, but I just couldn't find the answer in your archives. When laying 3/8" granite floor tile in a foyer/dining room over 3/4" T/G plywood over 2x12x16" well supported floor joists, what do you feel is the best underlayment to stiffen the floor (short of a full bed of mortar); Additional screwed and glued/mortared plywood or cement backer board? Is there an advantage, other than water resistance, to using cement board over plywood? Thanks in advance.
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| Question from: david batson |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am preparing to installing a dry bluestone walkway in eastern mass. I have recommendations on crushed stone base ranging from 4" to 8". Not sure the value of added gravel thickness under base. Any advise?
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| Question from: Katie C |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am wanting to install dark emperador marble for my bathroom vanity. I like the look of the 1 1/4" thickness, but the supplier is telling me that the 1 1/4" is more fragile than the thinner 3/4". This doesn't make sense to me, since surely a thicker slab would be less likely to break? Is there something special about emperador that makes it more fragile than other marbles?Also, what are industry standards for installation regarding breakage? If the slab breaks into several pieces during installation, is the slab simply replaced or is it standard to try to install it glued together?Thanks for any insights you can provide!Katie
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| Question from: Liz Silver |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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When installing sandstone flag as flooring, it is my understanding that a 24 hour drying period is necessary after mortar setting, washing of stone, application of grout resistor, and between sealer coats. Additionally, with joints up to two inches in both width and depth, I've been informed that 5 to 10 days should be allowed for the grout to completely cure prior to applying the sealant (Miracle's Porous Plus). Installers whom have submitted bids wish to shorten drying time allowances . . . especially so regarding the grout curing! Can any of these "corners" be "cut" without jeopardizing the quality and endurance of the installation? If so, would you recomend any minimum allowances for dry or cure time?And, finally, to remove extensive soiling prior to sealing, what types of acids would you recommend and which should be advoided?Thanks much - your help is highly appreciated; it is unfortunate that professional integrity of your level is a rare commodity in my locale!
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| Question from: TODD LUSTER |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We have a customer wanting a River Green(tropical G) granite slab shower. I know green marble is a problem in wet areas(been there). I have never had anyone ask to use one of the green granites in a shower,we do lots of it on kitchen c/t. So my question is will it warp in wet areas or give me any other problems. Thank you. Awesome site!
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| Question from: van honeycutt |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I have dark black geometric-shaped spots on my absolute black granite countertops. When the tops were installed the installers said they used a "bad sealer" that resulted in a white goop covering the tops that they then used denatured alcahol to try to remove. It was finally removed and the tops resealed. However, these spots are still there. They initially told me it water and would dry...now they say these spots are occlusions and I am stuck with them. Any opinions would be helpful while I try to resolve this problem.Also, is it ethical to install tops with such noticible spots in a home where the owners were not allowed to view the slabs prior to fabrication?Thank you.
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| Question from: van honeycutt |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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With my new granite countertops I also ordered a pair of undermount sinks. The sides (corners) of these sinks were cut off by the fabricators in order for them to fit into the sink cabinet. (we were told that this is common?) They were then just glued in with no hardware used. Also, the piece of granite between the two sinks is only 2 1/2 inches wide. Does all of this sound normal? We are worried about the sinks staying on and the center breaking.
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| Question from: Edward Hyde |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am installing a 800 sq ft bluestone patio for a homeowner. We dug it out 18 in deep, brought in crusher run ( limestone gravel that has not been filtered or washed) up to 13-14 in and then compacted it with a plate compactor. Solid! Then we apply fine Newcastle red sand and hand compact with a 8 in tamper , leaving just enough room for a half inch of sand to set the random cut stones into place. then , over and over , we scrub sand into the fine joints and spray liberally with water. It's solid , it's square to all the architecture, and it meets all the varying slopes of the pre-existing sidewalks ( which was not easy.) All this said, The homeowner is still skeptical about what the future holds for their patio. If we consider this a top notch installation, what can naturally happen in ten, twenty, thirty years? We live in Southwest Virginia. (Blacksburg) Thanks
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| Question from: van honeycutt |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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This is a follow-up to a question I posed yesterday about dark black geometric-shaped spots that are on my absolute black granite countertops.I asked if these spots were water trapped under "bad sealer" as I was originally told or occlusions (as the installers are telling me now that they have not dried)I forgot to say that these spots are on very prominent places in the kitchen (such as the front edge of the granite surrounding the sink. This spot is perfectly round and the size of the bottom of a large drinking glass. The other spots are oval(they match the size of the bottom of the dishwashing soap bottle) and are about 2" x 3 1/2" and are to the left side of the sink. Should we have been told that these large, noticable spots were there before the stone was fabricated?FYI: Both a drinking glass and a soap bottle were found on the countertops the day they were installed and had the "bad sealer" applied coincidentally.Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated as I really don't know how to handle this now.
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| Question from: Allan Lydon |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Can plumber's putty have any adverse impact on Absolute Black granite slabs? I am putting anew drop in sink in and want to know if it is OK to use the putty under the sink lip.Thanks
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| Question from: paul lange |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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my undermount sink is made of 3cm butterfly green, the piece is 110" long and has a small hairline crack in the front edge. my fabricator filled the crack and told me it is rodded underneath. is this acceptable?
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| Question from: brad stolshek |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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In December, we moved into a new house with newly installed travertine floors, about 1200 sq ft. We were ready to live our dream. During the walk-through we noticed surface scratches in some of tiles, numbers on almost every tile located on the walls and spacers in some of the joints. The builder and the sub contractors took most of the numbers off, fixed some of the spacers and didn't want to repair the scratched tiles. Since then we noticed more joints with spacers, the floor level being uneven, the grout lines being non-uniform (especially near the walls) and inconsistent groupings of tiles. The builder has asked the flooring sub contractor to come fix the problems. So, they have removed all the grout and in the process scratched and chipped probably over 50% of the tiles. And by doing so, they have found at least 300 spacers left in the floor. They have replaced some of the tiles, maybe 100 in all, to fix the lack of color distribution and some of the major damage due to the whole process. They will be epoxying the chips and holes created in this process for the remainder of the tiles. Then they will be having a flooring restoration company come in and hone the floor to make it flat and fix any new holes or chips with more epoxy. We think there are too many band-aids on the floor. Any suggestions?
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| Question from: Sandra Purnell |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Checking the "view answers" section on the message board, I saw part of the answer to my question. That being: during installing granite countertop, damage was done to a section about 6-8 inches long causing a crack. This crack goes all the way through the 1 1/4" granite. Since this crack apparently cannot be repaired satisfactorily, (reading a response on the message board) do you suggest a new countertop portion be installed and the original one scrapped or is this salvageable? Overall piece is approximately 5 feet long.Also, when putting two sections of countertop together, the seam was fragmented instead of a smooth joining. Can this be remedied by recutting and joining again? Is granite so fragile that its possible to cause a rough cut or could it be due to a less than sharp blade?
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| Question from: ann sawdon |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I'm replacing a table top with 12"x12" marble tiles. One of the tiles needs to be made just a fraction of an inch smaller. Do I cut it or sand it or is there a better way, and what exactly do I use for this. I already tried a tile cutter and broke the corner off of one of my tiles.
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| Question from: Kelly fedorowich |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We are installing 12 x 12 black marble in our foyer. We were going to remove the vinyl flooring but found MDF glued to the top of the sheet flooring. Can we install the marble tile directly on top of our vinyl flooring. Or, can we pull up the vinyl flooring and install the marble over the MDF? Thanks for your help.
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| Question from: Henrietta Browning |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We have a newly installed black pearl granitecountertop in our remodelled kitchen. But, latelywe have noticed a slight crack appear from theedge to slightly above the dishwasher. What couldhave caused this crack and what is the best wayto have it repaired?
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| Question from: R Menna |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I searched your archives, but could not quite find help with my problem. I am looking for help remodeling my existing shower stall. I plan a complete tear-down to studs, and I then plan to rebuild and finish with granite or porcelain tiles. In particular, I need ideas on how to build in soap and shampoo holders/shelves, and a small bench seat for shaving. I do not have a lot of room, but should have just enough to add some conveniences like these. Also, I need ideas for shower fixtures. I have considerable experience with remodeling including laying porcelain tile, but find it very helpful to see some example designs, and I have not done a shower stall before. I find the greatest satisfaction comes from thinking through all the little details up front. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions for where I can see different examples/ideas and how they are constructed to receive the finished surface. Thank you.
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| Question from: Mark Hannah |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I have installed a 12X12 granite tile countertop over the existing laminate top. The top was braced and stable, the laminate securily attached. I used latacrete epoxy setting material and epoxy grout. After 3 months the granite started cracking, not in areas that should normally show stress cracks, 1" from the edge of the top over a 2" thickness of high density particle board and also on the face pieces laminated to the front of the counter. Everyone that has reviewed it has no explaination for this. Has this problem ever happened to anyone else?
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| Question from: Alana Harndon |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I saw a picture of a kitchen with slate on the floors and was wondering for this type of use what kind of bonding is required and does the slate need to have a finish to seal it and if so what kind of finish is recommended?Also, another question is regarding granite to be used for kitchen counter tops. Again is there a particular bonding required and what kind of finish would be used to seal the granite?Thank you,Alana Harndon
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| Question from: Schelly Narvaez |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am installing over 2000 sq. ft. of slate on an uncovered patio and sidewalks with expansion joints. I need to know if the slate should be installed in this climate (Louisiana-very wet, hot summers, cold winters). What steps can I take to make sure the slate is installed correctly and the surface is protected?
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| Question from: Liz Silver |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Hoping to tap your wisdom-Have a granite counter; plan to have porcelain stone-look tile (purchased & non-returnable) installed as backsplash/wall tile. The tile is beveled & also has an irregular (rather than straight) edge, hence a perfect butt to the granite is impossible.Would you recommend adding a grout joint or butting the tile and inserting colored silicone caulk into the gaps?Do you have any ideas as to protection of the granite during tile installation?Thanks much for anything you have to offer
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| Question from: Pat Anderson |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Good site! We are planning on installing light colored 12x12 granite tiles over a laminate countertopusing either all purpose adhesive caulk by DAP or a clear 100% silicone.We are concerned about staining through the tiles. Which would you recommend?Thanks
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| Question from: Glenda Inman |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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What suggestions could you offer regarding installing marble tile on the ceiling of a steam shower...i.e. wonderboard vs. wet bed type of backing? Thank you in advance
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| Question from: Nigel AkoAddo |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I have two huge marble slabs for steps. They are in poor shape, sunken cracked and overall horrible looking. Can I float them over in marble or some other suitable stone?Thank you for your guidance.
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| Question from: John Gipson |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Where would I find specs for installing granite slabs in a steam shower that is going to have hot water tubed in the walls to acheve heated walls.?"How To"? install to insure heat is transfered through the slabs.
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| Question from: Larry Vogler |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I really like granite countertops. I am thinking of ordering granite countertopsfrom a supplier in a foriegn country, I am in the USA, fabricated to my specs. If I am very careful can I get countertops that will fit without my needing to cutgranite? Will I just need to glue the countertops down? I understand about undermount sinks and sandwiching them between the plywood and the granite. I do not want to fabricate countertops and I do feel I can describe mycountertops in enough detail that if my supplier makes what I order it will fit.I am willing to drill a hole for the faucet, but not much more. I also feel I canmake a solid, flat plywood base to glue the countertops on.
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| Question from: tonia setters |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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how do you keep granite tiles from plunging
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| Question from: Michael Lanum |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am installing 12" X 12" marble tiles on a counter top. The counter top sink basin (the hole in the counter top where the sink goes) corners are about a 2" radius. How can I cut a 2" inside radius on the marble tile? I have a wet saw and I do not want to have to "chew" out the radius. Is there a hole saw made for cutting marble that a do-it-yourselfer could obtain, or are there other tricks to the trade? Any help would be welcome considering this is keeping the installation from being finished. Thank You!! :-)
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| Question from: bob collins |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I bought two 49" prefab cream colored marble counter top which I am cutting off 7" to fit two 42" bathroom cabinets which will make one 84" dual sink bathroom counter. This will leave me with one joint down the middle. I was planning to glue this joint. Do you have any recommendations as to which glue to use and how best to apply it? Is there colored glue and should I use it?
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| Question from: bob collins |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I bought two 49" prefab cream colored marble counter top which I am cutting off 7" to fit two 42" bathroom cabinets which will make one 84" dual sink bathroom counter. This will leave me with one joint down the middle. I was planning to glue this joint. Do you have any recommendations as to which glue to use and how best to apply it? Is there colored glue and should I use it?
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| Question from: Tony Kubichek |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am about to install a natural smooth granite 12" x 12" stone floor. The subfloor is a varnished wood floor. What type of mortar or adhesive would best be suited for this installation? Should the varnish be removed from the wood first? Tony
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| Question from: anil choudhari |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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We are planning to provide 40mm thick granite tile as tread and 20mm thick tile as riser on steps at public place. These steps gets immersed in sea water daily and are subjected to effect of tidal waves. Nozing of 12 mm is proposed to treads. We are proposing fixing of the tiles by using cement grout. Do we need to improve on fixing. Is it necessary to provide mechanical fixing.
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| Question from: Jeff Simmons |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I saw a question from someone that said they are going to install 12 x 12 inch granite tile directly on top of a Formica counter top using 100% clear silicone. I want to replace my Formica counter top with granite tile also. Is it OK to glue the tiles directly to the Formica? Can I butt them up against each other with silicone between them to give a more solid look?Thanks, Jeff
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| Question from: David Crow |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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I am going to install 6X6 Travertine (not sure exactly what kind yet) around my fireplace (cinder-block wall). This is strictly a wall installation. Questions: 1) What is the best adhesive for this install (trav to cinderblock) 1a) Will I have to support tiles while adesive dries? 2)Can I butt joint? 2a) If I butt joint do I still need to grout or caulk? Thanks in advance...
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| Question from: Anh O |
Posted: Dec 31, 1969 (17:00) |
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Hello! My cabinets are secured to a 7 inch wide pony wall which is about half an inch higher than my base cabinets. How will the granite installers deal with the height difference? Is this a common problem? Thank you.
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